Did you know?

I realized that I remember hearing about the crisis in Somalia when I was young. I remember seeing the pictures of the starving babies with distended bellies. I vaguely remember not exactly of Mogadishu, but of an armed forces movement- of something beyond peaceful shipments of food and medical aide. This was before the genocide in Rwanda.

Did you know there is fighting again in Mogadishu?

"The 2nd Battle of Mogadishu started in May 2006. The battle is being fought between the Alliance for the Restoration of Peace and Counter-Terrorism or "ARPCT" and militia loyal to Islamic Courts Union or "ICU". The conflict began in mid-February. As of June 5th, at least 350 people, mostly civilians, have died caught in the crossfire. Mogadishu residents described it as the worst fighting in more than a decade of lawlessness. The Islamists blame the U.S. for funding warlords in an attempt to prevent them gaining power in the lawless country through its Central Intelligence Agency. The U.S. government and the CIA have neither admitted nor denied these allegations.

The Somali transitional government president Abdullahi Yusuf told the BBC the alliance of warlords is not fighting on behalf of the government.

On 5 June 2006, it was reported that members of the Islamic Militia had taken control of Mogadishu, and Prime Minister Ali Mohammed Ghedi was seeking to open a dialog with them. Four powerful warlords who had been serving as ministers had been sacked.[1] On 14 June 2006 the last ARPCT stronghold in the south, the town of Jowhar, fell with little resistance to the ICU. Reports had the remaining ARPCT forces fleeing to the east. As of this date the alliance appears near collapse with three warlords having withdrawn and a fourth reported to be considering joining them. The transitional government has approved the intervention of foreign peacekeepers. On 7 July forces in Mogadishu loyal to the last active member of the Alliance, Abdi Qeybdid, surrendered leaving the ICU in control of 99% of the capital.[2]

On July 20, 2006, it was reported by the BBC that a column of 100 Ethiopian military vehicles including armoured personnel carriers had crossed from the Ogaden region of Ethiopia and into Somalia. This followed advances made by Islamic Courts Union forces who had advanced to within 60km of the town of Baidoa. Further reports stated that Ethiopian troops had been seen in uniform on the streets of Baidoa. The Ethiopian government denies its forces have entered Somalia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somalia

Battle to Beauty

Hasarder asked for pictures of the shell art that I mentioned on her blog. Here they are love...
This is one of the most difficult blogs I've ever written.
These are shells from the war in Bosnia. These shells were found all over Sarajevo and turned into artwork for people to purchase. I was a bit hesitant to post these because I don't want to appear to be one of those people who like to collect disgusting things. To me, it is remembrance and I can only hope that the people who make and sell these feel the same way. We must remember the war in the former Yugoslavia. But friends, I have to tell you something very alarming. It is being remembered in bitterness, hate, and rage all over the world. I can only pray that by saying I bought these remnants of the war that I'll remember the tragedy and pray for healing.

I was eating dinner with some friends recently. At the table were two Americans and three Bulgarians. The Americans were women. The Bulgarians were two men and one woman. I suppose the topic of the war in Bosnia came up because I had recently returned from visiting it. These words came out of someone's mouth, "We supported Serbia. We don't like Muslims."

They echo between my ears and the reverberation makes my heart ache, "We supported Serbia. We don't like Muslims."

This calls to my memory a conversation my mother and I had while we were in Sarajevo. We were visiting the brother and his wife of a friend of my mother. We sat in a beautifully renovated apartment on the top floor of a block only a few hundred meters off Sniper Alley. He told us how people say Sarajevo looks so healed. It is so well renovated, remodeled. "Nothing has changed here. Bosnia is ready for war again."

"Bosnia is ready for war again."

When my Bulgarian friends declared their alliance with the Serbian position and their dislike of Muslims, I held my tongue. I couldn't argue with them. I couldn't tell them that the most love I've received in this country is from my Muslim friends and family here. I couldn't tell them that lowering themselves to such base hatred makes them lesser creatures than their own perception of the people who are objects of their low emotions. I couldn't explain how the war in Bosnia was much more complicated than just religious tensions. But it's what I wanted to say.

I watched Hotel Rwanda last night. I had to stop it occasionally and use the food on the stove as an excuse to take a break from the intensity of the film. When it was over I laid on my couch and sobbed. SOBBED. I was 13 years old in 1994.

A 13 year old girl in America can tell you about the private lives of her favorite film and pop stars. She has begun sexually maturing and has likely had a sexual experience if not intercourse. She knows about fashion. She knows how to find friends all over the internet. She knows the latest gossip in Hollywood. She's aware of the president's latest scandal, but nothing of his politics. She may know the name of her state governor, and perhaps what political party he aligns himself with. She probably cannot tell you what a senator is.

All I ever knew of the war in Bosnia was from the Cranberries song, "Sarajevo." I didn't know ANYTHING ANYTHING about Rwanda.

As I laid on my couch last night and sobbed, I cried outloud, "How come I never knew? I was thirteen years old." When the war in Rwanda ended I was thirteen years old and I knew nothing about it. Who's fault is that? My parents? The media? My own? The UN?

It's the world's responsibility to stay aware. To educate each other.

In my elective classes this year, I'll be doing units on genocide. I will include Rwanda, Kosovo, Bosnia, Afghanistan. My students do not know. If you know of any websites with lesson plans on these topics then please email me. If you have any books on these topics which are not terribly difficult to read, please mail them to me (I'll give you my mailing address).

If you have a story WRITE IT!!
If you have a picture SHOW IT!!
If you have a song SING IT!!

MAKE SURE THE WORLD KNOWS!

Mom would kill me...

But she can't because she's in Tennessee, USA and I am in Razlog, Bulgaria. However there was a time when she was here in Bulgaria. And this is the best picture I have of the two of us together. Neither of us are really very photogenic. This is an example of how good I am at timer pictures. We took this outside the little church that claims to be built in the sixteen hundreds, and offers one piece of evidence that it was actually built in the eleven hundreds.

This little church is in Dobarsko, a tiny village outside my town. I was up there again this past week for an international youth exchange. One evening, I realized that the hills in Dobarsko where, at that moment, the most beautiful place on earth. I can't explain to you how unbelievably breathtaking it was. Perhaps it was a combination of things.

The day had been spent on a "survivor's game" in which we had to search the woods for cards dictating our fate. Each card announced either a food item such as bread or potatoes, or it required us to take a chance. When we chanced we had to face a challenge, generally of some team-building type activity. Succeed and we win a food item. Fail and we must sacrifice a food item or a team member. The element of this game that moved my heart in such a way that the simple beauty of the evening view was astonishing was not the team-building, but the way my student-friends organized and carried out this game so successfully.

I sat on a blue tarp. An American girl sitting with Bulgarians, Italians, Czechs, and Hungarians. All of us on a big blue tarp enjoying the sun and acknowledging the beauty of the valley below and the setting sun.

Perhaps a beautiful thing is more beautiful when the people you would most love to share it with aren't there with you. You simple can't work up the words to describe the twinkling of the villages below and the stars above. The way the sun goes down behind one hill and the full moon shines bright orange from behind the opposite hills. How can I describe that kind of beauty? I can only wish you had been there.

I'm writing you to catch you up on places I've been
You held this letter
probably got excited, but there's nothing else inside it
didn't have a camera by my side this time
hoping I would see the world through both my eyes
maybe I will tell you all about it when I'm
in the mood to lose my way with words
TODAY skies are painted colors of a cowboy cliche'
And strange how clouds that look like mountains in the sky
are next to mountains anyway
Didn't have a camera by my side this time
Hoping I would see the world through both my eyes
Maybe I will tell you all about it when I'm
in the mood to lose my way
but let me say
You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
it brought me back to life
You'll be with me next time I go outside
NO more 3x5's
I Guess you had to be there
I Guess you had to be with me
Today I finally overcame
tryin' to fit the world inside a picture frame
Maybe I will tell you all about it when I'm in the mood to
lose my way but let me say
You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
it brought me back to life
You'll be with me next time I go outside
no more 3x5's
just no more 3x5's

"3x5" -John Mayer

Dubrovnik and her Islands

I was so addicted to taking pictures through the city walls. This is the old harbor. Cool. 
These are my feet on a boat. This boat took me to three different islands on the coast of Dubrovnik. You can't tell it from this picture, but one of my ankles is fatty swollen from being sprained by a huge klutz!  
Dubrovnik city wall from the sea... ohhh, can I tell you how amazing it was to sit on a boat and feel the salt air all over my skin? To be cool and hot at the same time? To feel so refreshed? Perfect. 
This is one of the little islands we visited. I can't remember if this is the one on which I laid out for hours or if this is the one where I took a refreshing but quick little hop in the water. Either way, it was nice.  

Dubrovnik is Perfect

The first full day we were there, Mom and I walked the city wall with a little hand speaker that told us about what we could see from each of the twenty something locations. This picture was taken from above the Pile entrance, which is the entrance with the drawbridge, if you've been. It looks out on the Franciscan Church, the main walking street, and at the other end, the city clock tower and the entrance to the old harbor.  
Dubrovnik, and I suppose most sea coast towns, has this perfect humidity. It's not like the humidity in the South that suffocates you with moisture. It's a kind of humidity that, when the salt water blows in with the wind, helps your body to cool off. I can't explain it. I've lived on the coast before, but I guess the Pacific and the Adriatic are a bit different.  
Mom and I travelled from Sarajevo to Dubrovnik with a college friend, Rachel. She works there and had access to a car. A suburban actually. You can't imagine the looks on the firemen sitting outside as five women drive by in a huge late 90s Suburban. Anyway. We took this big beast down, me and the mom, my friend Rachel, her roommate, and a friend of hers who lives in Mostar (more pics of that sometime). Rachel was going to stay with us in Dubrovnik and the other two were going to have dinner and return to Mostar. Rachel wasn't feeling well, so she returned with the other two. It worked out better, Rae, we had a crummy room, and it was too hot for you. This is the sunset on that first night. We parked above the city wall, above most of the city- which is on a hill. It was a georgious night.  
Another picture from the city wall. I just loved how they put decorative or symbolic elements on the outside of the wall. I'm not sure which saint this guy represents, but he is facing the sea. I just thought it was a cool shot.